January 2009
2 posts
1/19/09
Finally another surf session. Once a week is making it hard to stay in shape, and I end up surfing for ony about an hour each time. A downward spiral of sorts. I took the longboard out at sunrise for some glassy thigh high lines. i didn’t go left once, but rode most of the waves I caught all the way to the sand. Some nice backlit waves once the sun was up enough. Cold water nd a few dolphins...
1/13/09
I woke up late in the morning to find a fun looking waist-chest high waves coming in. I grabbed the fish, cut the rip curl snaps off my hood and walked out in the rain to surf. A little north drift, but some fun clean waves. I got my best two waves on the first two. A left and then a right. Kinda blew it on the right at the end, but still got some good snapsin. Rode a right to close out beach in....